11.22.2012

Carl Dau

Fine Jewelry Designers
At the age of 23 Carl Dau began training as a goldsmith. In 1972 immediately after earning his master goldsmith's degree at the Hanau State Academy and being awarded a gifted students' educational grant, he went to Berlin to complete further studies at the Berlin College of Fine Arts. Since 1996, Dau has worked with his team in his studio in Berlin.

18K yellow gold and yellow diamond gemstone ring
18K Gold and Yellow Diamond Ring
Bezel set faceted yellow diamond: 0.50 carat.
12mm wide 18K yellow gold flat profile band.
$5800

Dau strongly influenced the development of modern jewelry design with his minimalist creations. Best known for mathematical precision combined with classic form, Carl Dau creates jewelry for men and women in stainless steel, 18 Karat gold, sterling silver and titanium. His jewelry lines often reveal obvious affinities with the sculpture created by Donald Judd, Richard Serra and other Minimalist artists.

Stainless steel, sometimes combined with precious metals, plays a central role in his minimalist pieces which have been honored with several state prizes. Because of their form, material and function, Carl Dau's pieces also appeal to men. Since the beginning of the new millennium, his pieces increasingly feature colored surfaces and diamonds.

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GEMSTONES

Doublets and Triplets
Due to the ever increasing costs of precious metals and other materials, jewelry companies have resorted to various ways to keep the prices affordable for jewelry, especially gemstone jewelry. One of the changes I have noticed recently is the use of doublets and triplets.

A doublet is a 'gemstone sandwich' made with two layers. The lower, larger portion is made of glass or an inexpensive stone and has a smaller layer of a more valuable stone adhered to the top of it. Inexpensive stones are often used to give the illusion of a better gemstone.

This technique is often used to create opal doublets from a thin vein of precious opal which would otherwise be too fragile to use by itself in a piece of jewelry. The bottom layer is usually an inexpensive mineral such as ironstone or onyx with the opal cemented on top.

A triplet is a stone with three layers. A layer of clear quartz is sometimes added to the top to protect the surface or to enhance the color. Some designers use doublets or triplets to create a certain look that is unachievable with either stone alone.

As for their wearability, jewelers have been using these processes successfully for decades with some more fragile stones. If you love the look of a piece, do not hesitate to buy it. As long as you treat your jewelry with care - as you should with any jewelry - there should be no problem.

GEMSTONE SETTINGS

Bezel Settings
This simple and versatile setting has been in use for thousands of years, and works well for either cabochons or faceted stones. A strip of metal is bent into the shape of the stone then soldered to the piece of jewelry. Then the stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal rubbed over the stone, essentially enfolding the stone in a tight metal pocket.

Bezel settings are sleek with clean lines, making them popular in modern jewelry design. They are secure settings and protect the stones from nicks and dirt. Many bezel settings are designed to be flush with the surface of the stone, which can be an advantage for active people who do not want to risk damage to their jewelry.

Basket Settings
A basket setting is essentially a miniature metal basket which is customized to the stone. Basket settings are extremely popular for rings, bracelets, necklaces and brooches. They hold the stones snugly in place while allowing plenty of light to flow through and around the stone, creating a rich interplay of light and texture. This characteristic makes them particularly popular with diamond jewelry, as they allow lots of light through the stone.

Channel Settings
Channel setting is a method whereby stones are suspended between two bars or strips of metal, called channels. The channel is some variation of a 'U' shape, with two sides and a bottom. The stones are put in place in notches and the metal on top is pushed down, tightening the stones in place. When setting small stones and the bars go in a linear line with the design it is called channel setting, and when the bars cross the lines of the design, it is called bar set. The idea is the same, though.

MORE SETTINGS

Pave Settings
When many stones are set very closely together that is called pave (pronounced pah-vay), from the French for paved or cobblestoned. The stones are also set very close to the surface of a piece, making it look like the jewelry has been paved in gemstones. This type of setting is especially popular for rings and pendants with translucent stones like emeralds, rubies, diamonds and topaz.

To make this setting, jewelers make a series of impressions in the metal which are used to seat the stones, and small beads or prongs are used to pin the stones in place. The goal is to have as little metal showing as possible, so that the brilliance of the stones can be clearly seen.

Some people pursue a pave setting because they find it attractive, or because pave set jewelry can be less expensive than other styles of jewelry. Generally, the smaller the stone, the less its value, even if it is a high-quality stone. Someone with a limited budget can purchase a beautiful piece of jewelry with a pave setting, rather than one with a single small stone.
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